Sunday, 21 October 2018

19th October.

Last day in Ho chi Minh city. After breakfast, we get a cab to go to the old post office to get some souvenir. A short ride later, and we are there. As we enter the building, two young Vietnamese girls approach us and ask us if we could be interviewed for a research project they are doing at their university. Their topic is food. Their English is ok, and we manage to understand most of their questions, which weren't to many. One girl is doing the interviewing, and one is recording the interview. Of which we did agree to at the start.
After that was done, we enter the building and look around the souvenir shops and goods, make our purchases and walk back to the motel. A 10 min walk.
We pack our bags, and check out of the motel. Because  my original suitcase was surplus to my needs now, hence the unexpandable handle, we have to leave it behind. As luck would have it, the porter man was near our room and helped us with our luggage. We mention to him that we are leaving the old case there, and he asked if we could write a note saying that he could have it, to which Bob obliges.  We take our last car ride to the airport, among all the scooters and cars.
It has been an interesting time here in Vietnam. I have enjoyed my time here, even though there have been some challenging moments, it has been good. We go through into the airport, find our airline, check in, pass through customs, which is much less stressful than entering, and wait for boarding for our 3pm flught. Bob wants to get rid of the last of the Dong he has, but everything in the airport is in USD. He manages to get something, so it's all spent.
The flight to Singapore is a 2 hrs flight which is good, then we have a 4 hr wait in Singapore. We find something to eat, then wait to find out what gate we are boarding at. We walk, then use the free internet to kill time.
Onboard, the flight  leaves at 22.20  and almost 8 hrs later we are back in Queensland.
It has been a wonderful time away.

Thursday, 18 October 2018

18th October

Our last full day in Ho Chi Ming city. After breakfast, we meet up with our tour guide, Daisy, who is going to take us around the city, looking at the old and the new.
Our first stop is the Military Remnants museum. Daisy is full of information as I guess most Vietnamese people would be. The museum is a reminder of all the wrong done to this country during the time of war.
But this country is one that has been pushed and pulled by many countries in all directions over its time. These people have suffered so much from outside countries. I feel a sadness for these people as they have endured so much, and don't seem to have benefited that much from any one. Bob and Daisy go onto a couple of other displays relevant to the war,  and I wait for them. I go and peruse the gift shop here, and find lots of souvenirs, but just look. Although this is the first place where you can actually look with out getting hassled.
We move on to the area where there are some French building, from pre war, and view, the Notre Dame Cathedral. It is under repair so we are not able to go inside, as was the Chinese markets we were going to go to also. Just across from the Cathedral, is the stately old Post Office. It is a magnificent building, and operating as a post office, as well as a tourist destination, and souvenir selling. There was an old Gent seated, in the middle of the post office, and people were talking with him as he used to work in the post office, back in the war, and before I suspect. He learnt to speak English from when the Americans where there. He was 88 Years old.
Then we moved on to a restaurant for lunch. This is a training restaurant, KOTO, know one teach one. The idea is the teach and continue teaching. Food was very good. We also take in a Chinese Temple, lots of Pidgeons there, and a tank with catfish and other fish swimming in it. All these different types of religions becomes confusing as there are 5 different faiths here. I didn't go inside the Temple, but Bod and Daisy do.
After lunch, the driver says he would like to drive us  around the newer part of Ho Chi Ming city. There are lots of High end shops here, obviously for the very Rich. we also see a few more French architecture buildings. All in all a good day. Our guide was very knowledgeable, and had studied in America after winning a scholarship.
In the evening Bob and I get a taxi and  go to one of the Shopping Malls with very high end shops, like Rolex, and Mont Blanc, and numerous fashion houses, and cosmetics.
We find the Food court, and head back to the room via Taxi
18th - Ho Chi Minh City tour is the main activity today. We have booked a full day tour but will see how we go. Our tour guide, Daisy, and driver Mr. T arrive promptly at 9:00 and Daisy lays out the plan for the day. The standard plan as we find out includes visits to 2 of the cities major markets including Beh That which we have haunted for days. \
Daisy tells us to fully understand Vietnam one needs to know the history so first stop is the American War Museum. The Vietnamese call the war we know as the Vietnam War as the American War as they have lived with conflict for a long time.
To say the museum was conflicting would be a vast understatement. Graphic photos of the atrocities inflicted on the people brought home to some just the truth. Massacres and weapons of mass destruction, 1960's style, were there for all to see. 3 floors of photos, 1000's of them, adorn every wall. No escape here for those involved. The underlying politics were also there to see. JFK who opposed going to war was assassinated the same month as the Vietnamese General who also opposed going to war. They were replaced by "hawks" who readily entered the fray including "all the way with LBJ - President Lyndon Johnson, JFK's vice-president.
Daisy, who can easily be describes as an activist, was educated in Vietnam, USA and  Manilla. She comes from a strongly Communist family but she is vey much a nationalist who agrees with the unification but wants the promised free elections which are now 40 years over due.
She also outlined the French involvement in Vietnam which began in the 1800's when France was invited in by the then King. French influence in Vietnam is everywhere in the infrastructure and architecture. Magnificent buildings are all throughout Ho Chi Minh City, Still Saigon to most.  We visited the Saigon Post Office during the day and the grandeur of this structure needs to be seen. Saigon became the centre of Asia during this period.
When in 1940 Germany conquered France they, Germany, assumed control over all French territories around the world - see Casablanca. Because Vietnam was so far from Germany they asked their ally, Japan, to take over and they did. Japan were very cruel to the people and their culture. At the end of WW2 Vietnam self ruled until the early 1950's when France took over again with the aid of the USA. USA wanted to diminish the growing influence of USSR. The next 10 years were horrific for the Vietnamese people with France, a.k.a. USA, tortured, punished and killed 800,000 locals who were seen against French rule - ether nationalists or communists. The pressure from the north for unification started the American War in 1964 with the USA supported by France, England, Australia, New Zealand and others taking on North Vietnam backed by the USSR and an emerging China. The rest as they say is history. In 1974 USA and its allies signed a peace accord with N the north and its allies, guaranteeing free elections and freedom. America packed up and were never heard from again. The communists took over the unified Vietnam and have not been challenged. The country has never recovered, economically or socially.
We finished our tour a little early having see the Chinese Temple where President Obama met with officials in the first Presidential visit here since the war.
Last night we visited Diamond Plaza which is one of a handful of very high end shopping centres that have popped up in the last few years to service the well-to-do who driver their Rolls, Range Rovers and Mercs in amongst the hoards of bikes. Interesting mix.

Wednesday, 17 October 2018

17th - Tay Ninh is a fabulous real Vietnamese city, relatively untouched by the west and tourism. A great choice by us to off-set the bustle of Ho Chi Minh City and the tourism of Vung Tau.
On the way back to Ho Chi Minh we visited the Cao Dai Great Temple (Thanh That Cao Dai), the Cao Dai Holy See, founded in 1926, is 4km east of Tay Ninh, in the village of Long Hoa. As well as the Great Temple, the complex houses administrative offices, residences for officials and adepts, and a hospital of traditional Vietnamese herbal medicine that attracts people from all over the south for its treatments.
This is a most  impressive facility centred on the temple and has a vast array of followers, teachers, monks and is visited by millions per year. They even have a their own resident families of monkeys. The visit had a strong emotional impact on Roberta.
The car ride to Ho Chi Minh City was uneventful but again provided a display of the variety of landscapes, industry, transport and diversity of this land. 
We arrived mid afternoon and after checking in headed of to reconnoitrer the market. We were on a mission to purchase a new suitcase for Roberta whose existing case had a malfunctioning retractable handle. We first stepped into a shirt stand and for the next 30-40 minutes we jousted with the lady sales folk which was great fun. The sales folk had amazing skills of selling, negotiation, flattering, outright sexual innuendo, and make exit almost impossible. Both Roberta and I purchased shirts and managed to escape with our wallets and dignity almost intact. Shirts are great, dirt cheap and overall good buys. We headed back to the hotel to re-group. We planned to attend that evenings night market which we learned started at 7:00pm.
We had some early dinner, Pho, and then down to the market. There was considerable activity in the side streets but no market - it was 6:30. We took up position at a local café and waited.
At 6:45 the most amazing, orchestrated event took please when hundreds of people with hundreds of pop-up gazebos flooded in like a tsunami, followed by bikes towing large metal boxes full of goods. 
In the next 10 minutes the market sprung up from the ground to fully equipped and lit stands offering everything from food, trinkets, clothes, shoes, hats, and of course bags and suitcases. Roberta wanted a full sized case plus a carry-on case. She found what she wanted and then the dace again began. "How much"? - "3million 2 hundred thousand" "Too much" "2million, 5 hundred thousand" "Too much" "2 million" "No" "How much then"? We offered 1 million 5 hundred thousand. After the usual theatrics we did the deal - 1 million 5 hundred thousand dong - A$90.00.
We dragged the case and ourselves back to the hotel. Tomorrow we have a city tour for our last day.

17th October

We leave Tay Ninh this morning after a great breakfast. The breakfast room was the busiest it's been since we got here. After breakfast we went for our last walk along the streets of Tay Ninh, back to the motel to check out and wait for our car to arrive to take us back to Ho Chi Ming city. On the way back we plan to stop and see the Cao Dai Holy See Temple.
We check this with Dat, our driver, and we are on our way. This was the last thing we wanted to see before we left the area. We had planned to go there yesterday, but mother nature intervened. Maybe it was for good reason. When we arrived, the whole place is just absolutely wonderful. And to add to the magic, we saw some monkeys run across the road. Dat, the driver stayed with the car, although he said he had not been here before. We walk around in awe of it all. I am totally amazed. The building is bright, and yet so reverent. There are people milling around, but not that many, but as always lots of scooters. There are separate entrances for men and women, so Bob  goes to his side, and I just walk about looking. I fear doing something that might offend the monks and the women of the temple. I take a couple of pics, and Bob  calls me over to go inside.

So I go to the ladies entrance, and am to fearful I may do something wrong. I don't want to disrespect anyone. I take my shoes off, as is the custom, and I am ushered in by one of the ladies, still uncertain. There was a group of younger women going in at the same time. I reunite with Bob, and I begin to struggle with where I am, and how over powering it is. Looking around at the intricate carvings and brightly coloured figures is beyond me. A monk encourages us to walk all the way around. I want to drink in this whole event. I dare not take photos, as I feel it would be intruding on the sacredness of the temple.  So I absorb what I can. I feel a flood of tears welling up inside, as I think of mum. Tears spill out, and I do try to control myself. It was a very emotional moment. The blind faith that these people have in something that can or can't be disproved, and to build such elaborate temples is over powering. Never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined experiencing this. I have so much to be thankful for, and to give thanks about. It takes me sometime to recover emotionally from the experience. Bob tells me afterwards, that there was a funeral about to take place. Imagine waiting to start while visitors look around. Very humbling.
We continue on our way to Ho Chi Ming city. Watching the landscape change back to cramped and busy again. It is very different watching the scenery changing. The shops vary, with bike repairers and trye places, and all manner of things, the out there in the mix, is a bridal dress shop, or a beauty place, and as always food vendors. There are lots of empty buildings,  and some appear to be abandoned.
And some 2 hrs later we arrive back at the GK  Central hotel. Check in, regather ourselves and brave the markets. Our aim is to get another suitcase for me, as the handle on the one I have won't extend out. We look about, and hunt one down, now the haggling begins. We don't get the price we want, so we go away. Further into the murkyiness of the markets. Bob and i get snaged at a stall selling shirts, and as always, they say, " we have your size Sir, " to which we reply and say no, I don't think  you would. So Bob sets about to prove them wrong. But they are correct, and he is sized up. Then one lady starts on me, and I say, no, you wouldn't have anything for my size. Hmmmm, how wrong I was. So I walk away with 5 tops. But at a good price. We then high tail it back to the room as the heat is stifling. An hour or so later, we head back to the markets. Bob is on a mission. The night markets start at 7 we are told.
Now this is something to behold, on the streets, there are scooters pulling all manner of stall equipment, but nothing is being put together,  so, we decide to sit and watch what is about to happen unfold.
Well, seeing is believing. At about 15 mins to 7, organised chaos erupts and everyone is busy assembling gazebos, putting goods up for display, plugging in electricity, and ready to sell in 15 mins. AMAZING. We duck and weave our way though the night market, and eventually decide on a suitcase. So we have seen it, haggled for it, and now fleeing from the markets. A wonderful day, starting from a slow paced day, to a frenzied evening. And all along the way, lots to be happy about.

Tuesday, 16 October 2018

16th - Last day in Tay Ninh. We are both still on Queensland time so 5:30 wake ups (8:30 Qld time) are sleep-ins so a lazy start and then off to breakfast. The chef has now realised he has western guests so he made the effort to put together some bacon and sausage for us which was appreciated.
We rallied ourselves and arranged a taxi to take us to the Black Virgin Mountain which is a 1000m high mountain jutting up from a very flat surrounding Vietnam. The mountain is a sacred Buddhist temple which cannot be seen from below. The ground facility is obviously set up to handle great numbers of visitors but we were early so all good. Once you pay the entry and purchase a bus ticket, all of A$1.50, an open bus took us on a 5 minute ride to the real entry and the start of the climb to the temple which is at the 800m mark.  We had the choice of an extreme trek up the mountain or take the Austrian built cable cars. After some discussion, not, we took the cable car which was an amazing ride withe amazing views. There is evidence of a light rail system and another chair lift, both now unused. At the top the temple and associated buildings jump our from the surroundings. How this stone, brick and timber facility was built here all those years ago is a testimony of very strong faith by the builders. We still had to climb about 100 steps to get to the site but worth the effort. Many people were there paying homage and all being respectful. A monk sat quietly in a corner of one of the buildings. His ling tan coloured robes and shaved head were quite distinctive. A junior monk came out and rang a bell which was 4.0 M high and would weigh many tonnes. Again one wonders how they got this up the mountain. Superb and amazing place but now we had those stairs to descend, down the cable car and back to the hotel for re-grouping.
A trip to Cafe Le Petit for lunch and an encounter with a young chap who spoke good English he learnt himself from his smart phone. We has cheese sandwiches with icing sugar coating followed by some yummy deserts. The young man then picked up his guitar and started to play. A guy going far in life.
We decided to walk back but then the heavens broke and a tropical downpour stranded us under shop awnings. A downpour of biblical proportions ensued for around an hour and a half. The streets were awash and then partly flooded. Didn't stop the bikes who just put plastic sheets over them selves and pressed on, hardly slowing. Eventually we managed to hail a cab and dragged our wet bodies back to the hotel to dry.
In the evening, being brave, we took a cab to a chosen restaurant. La Dem was listed on Tripadvisor as the No1 restaurant in Tay Ninh. A small compact eatery with inside and outside dining. Again a young lad who spoke some English served us our pizza and pasta along with a couple of Tiger beers on ice! We checked later and found there were no 4-5 star restaurants in Tay Ninh just a few modern eateries and lots of local eating halls.
The food was great and at the end of the meal the proprietor came out for a chat. He was a Frenchman with a great accent. He had been in Tay Ninh for 8 years having traveled widely. He knew Melbourne describing it as across between Paris and London. He tried to emigrate to Australia but was told he was too old - 38 I think!! He said he was one of only 11 Caucasians in Tay Ninh, mostly French, Australian and English. He likes the place but fears it is changing. He said he would not go back to France as it had changed too much over the last 10 years it was no longer the France he grew up in.
We wished him and his Vietnamese wife all the best, grabbed a cab and headed off to bed.

16th October

Good morning,
Today we intended to do some exploring a bit further abroad. So after we had breakfast, which was getting better, and we were a bit later getting to the buffet, we had fresh bacon and some stir fried vegetables with noodles cooked up fresh for us. We booked a taxi to take us to Ba Den ( the black mountain) to check it out. Our taxi arrived with no English, but we are getting good at this, I now have where we want to go, on my phone so we can show where it is we wish to go to. And it works well.
Arriving at our destination 15 mins later, we were a little unsure, as there seemed to be not a lot of activity, but we get out of the car and make for the gate. Found the ticket box, and purchased tickets to get to the place were the chair lift is. We get on board a electric buggy and 5 mins later are at the next point. We purchase tickets for the chair lift, and head to them. I double check that Bob is good with this, as I know he has a fear of heights. He assures me he is cool. Once inside our little capsule, it get real. Holy smokes. Looking up is daunting. But can't back out now. Doors are shut tight. As we progress, it becomes so quiet and almost calming. Watching to capsule get higher and higher, and with each post where the cable wheels attach, there is a bit of a shudder. But it's ok. We get to the other end, step out and the view is just amazing.


After looking at how the cable cars work we advance to the temple. Up a couple of flights of steps,  it is a sight to behold. Beautiful buildings a big bell and such amazing wood carving. 
Monks were here, and the bell was longed at 10 when we were there. This was a great experience. We head back down and going down is tense, but once I relax, it's all good. 
We go back to the room via a taxi and hide from the heat. 
Bob decides we need to go to a pastry place I found online, so off we go. Taxis are very good here. Once again I have our place of destination on phone. Le Petit cafe. A wonderful little place in the middle of chaos. The guy that welcomed us, spoke good English. He taught himself. 
We decide to walk back to the room, to walk of what we had consumed, cheese sandwich and sweets. Get get outside and start walking for about two mins and a torrential downpour starts. We hop from one awning to another, till it gets to heavy. The street becomes awash with water, and we stand and watch the cars and scooters pass. All though the scooter numbers are not as many as previous. We wait, and wait, and wait. Must have been around an hour and a half. Bob waves at a couple of taxis passing by, but they have passengers. He waves at another one going in the opposite direction and he acknowledges us, but keeps going. So after a while we move on, as the rain has steadied. Almost stopped. Then we hear a car horn blowing, and it was the taxi. So two wet people get into the car. Back to the Victory hotel. And to dry off and warm up. Because we were caught for so long in the rain storm, it stopped our other plans of going to the Cao Dai temple. So we will check it out tomorrow on our way back to Ho Chi Minh city. 
We went out to tea, to a little Resturant, and found another local that could speak English. He learnt via his smart phone. The owner of the place is a French man. And we ended up having a talk with him while the taxi arrived. 
Tay Ninh has been a lovely town and a wonderful experience. I have loved the challenge of the language barriers, being the white people that the locals look at, and enjoying the food that is offered. People are friendly, and only to happy to try and help.